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Drainage & Excavation · Nashville, TN

Regrading Around a Foundation

Ground that has settled toward the house over twenty years is the most common and most fixable drainage fault.

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· Michael Blair

Grade around a house settles over decades, and beds get built up with mulch year after year. The result is ground sloping toward the foundation, which is exactly the wrong direction on Middle Tennessee clay.

Recognising it

Stand at the wall and look outward. Water should visibly run away. Mulch or soil piled above the brick ledge or against siding is a clear sign, and so is a bed that ponds after rain.

A string line and a level answers it definitively over ten feet.

How it is corrected

Adding soil to build fall away from the house, keeping the finished grade below the siding line and below any weep screed or brick weep holes.

Clay-rich soil is appropriate here rather than free-draining topsoil, because you want water to run off the surface rather than soak in beside the footing.

  • Six inches of fall over the first ten feet
  • Keep grade below siding, weep screed and brick weeps
  • Use clay-rich fill, not free-draining topsoil
  • Do not bury the brick ledge or cover weep holes
  • Combine with downspout extensions

Do not bury the wall

Raising grade above the brick weep holes or a weep screed blocks the drainage path out of the wall assembly, which causes rot behind siding and moisture in brick.

It is a common mistake made while solving a drainage problem, and it creates a worse one.

With downspouts

Regrading and downspout extension work together — good grade with water dumped onto it beside the wall achieves little.

Doing both is usually the whole solution on a house whose problem is surface water rather than groundwater.

FAQ

Regrading Around a Foundation — questions

How do I know if I have negative grade?

Look along the ground away from the wall after rain and see which way water runs, or run a string line and a level over the first ten feet. Mulch or soil piled above the brick ledge or against siding is a clear indicator, and so is a bed that holds water after a storm.

What soil should I use to regrade?

Clay-rich fill rather than free-draining topsoil. The aim is to shed water across the surface away from the house, not to give it an easy path down beside the footing. Topsoil and compost placed against a foundation do the opposite of what is intended.

Can I raise the ground up against the siding?

No. Grade must stay below the siding line, any weep screed and brick weep holes, because those are the drainage path out of the wall. Burying them traps water in the assembly and causes rot behind siding and persistent moisture in brick — a worse problem than the one being solved.

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